Shiatzy Chen, presented his fall-winter collection 2019-2020, titled « Guardian » at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris. This collection represents a time-space translation. Miao mythology which serves as the source of inspiration for the collection is fused with glamorous and mysterious color tones.

Spontaneously hand-drawn mythological imagery including the legendary creature with a dragonhead and fish body, the phoenix, the flower of life, the nine suns, and Mother Butterfly, the origin of everything, appears on the garments in metamorphosed form by employing different kinds of craftsmanship such as embroidery, printing, and jacquard weaving. A perfect example is the stitch pattern detail to imitate the sun on one of the jackets and the 3D flying butterfly imagery embroidered on the attached hood.

As for employed materials, metal yarn fabric creates a glittery look and complex layers are generated through utilization of beading, lace, and exclusive fabrics. Brand identity has been enhanced through such techniques in recent years. A dramatic character is added to layered outfits through cotton and down padding. Personality is accentuated, and magnificent energy is generated through straps, wrapped designs, and oversize silhouettes.

To complete the collection, the shoes design inspired by the Miao mythology steps in the latest trend of being sporty. In the Miao legend, there were several migrations for the people. Therefore, the designer creates different kinds of boot types to echo the stories and being more liberate for the movement.

The bag design of this season also demonstrates the core value and complexity of the brand. Laser cut pattern with embroideries by hands of the masters makes the scenery on the bag more vivid. The knots on the embroideries make a rhythm. The unique craftmanship employed this time shows make a strong resemblance to couture-making.  

The concept of deep affection adopted by Design director Shiatzy Chen is derived from the image of the baby carrier (cloth used by mothers of the Miao tribe to carry children on their backs) extracted from tradition in an effort to convey the sharp edginess originating in oriental fashion.

Photos: Catherine Miran