LUIS BUCHINHO – READY TO WEAR FALL-WINTER 2019/20

Luis Buchinho, presented his new collection autumn-winter 2019/20 in Paris. The designer researched the uniform used by female pioneers of aviation in the forties, a time when clothing should come with a lifetime guarantee of utility.

It’s easy to imagine the propellers turning when we see the variations of Amy Johnson’s headgear, jumpsuits and bomber jackets. The luxurious leather marks the season mixed with fake fur, flannel, knits, wool boucles and felt.

Every single one of his giant-collared shearlings, aviator-drab overcoats, jackets and every hybrid thereof have particular graphic variations of volume, shape and buckle detail.

Geometric, stiff and composed of zones of matte and shine, with leather dimpled and fake fur, Buchinho mixes casual things with classic and manipulates materials and colors to create graphic silhouettes for women who want to break down barriers of gender bias: strong, affirmative and sexy.

Sir David Adjaye’s diverse designs and innovative use of materials and light were also a strong drive to design the whole collection, mostly modelling and the patterns.  Photos: Lappartpr/Luis Buchinho

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