The DIOR house with its creator Kim Jones, presented the autumn-winter 2019/20 collection in Paris. The designer draws on the heritage of the house, silhouettes, know-how, fabrics, philosophy and life of Christian Dior. The inspiration comes from the story of Dior, his emblems and codes seen through a new prism. Animal prints, drapes, architectural tailoring, soft color palette, precious materials of haute couture. The animal spirit first takes the form of the panther print, so dear to Monsieur Dior, present from its first collection in 1947. It is accompanied by tiger and leopard motifs, worked in knit and fur intarsia.
The influence of haute couture is revealed in tailoring, where satin panels are integrated as if the lining were exposed. This idea is taken up by completely reversible pieces, in homage to the couture creations, which must be as perfect inside as outside.
After the tailor, the blur, the technique of molding, this sewing know-how that works the drape on the body. Inspired the way of designing certain pieces. The asymmetry created by the diagonal drape of the oblique tailor gives rise to coats whose sides close over the button, to cause a break in the precision of the shape. Other jackets unveil the pieces of fabric that button inside to better drape to the ground, in the extreme version of the oblique.
Haute couture is present in cashmere, silk satin and furs combine with technical fabrics for a transparent shine. The mesh, born of a new know-how, produces a moiré effect, while a delicate lace is cut on sweaters close to the body.The range of famous colors the shades dear to the house, from the lightest blue to mauve, through a gray to midnight blue, then black.
Christian Dior’s fascination with art and the art world is interpreted by Kim Jones in collaboration with Raymond Pettibon. Drawings and creations imagined by the artist were worked in prints, meshes, jacquards and embroidery made by hand. A face evokes that of the Mona Lisa, these references to the history of art join the Dior universe: A “punk” version of the print panther, stenciled for an almost floral effect.
The jewels designed by Yoon Ahn refer to the personal passions and superstitious nature of Dior, with memories and charms worn as amulets or on a charm bracelet.
Another evocation of the transition from feminine to masculine, the saddle bag is again revisited for men, comes in nylon or leopard-like mink, and is worn over the shoulder. The other bags play with the classic forms of Dior accessories, revisiting their proportions. The shoes are often accompanied by nylon gaiters, while the leather is worked with punch or laser, and is decorated with panther patterns.