CHRISTIAN DADA, presents the Autumn / Winter 2019 collection at SIGNAL NOISE in Paris. The fall-winter collection takes its cue from the 1994 art performance piece, “S/N” by Dumb Type, by a Japanese artist collective whose productions addressed minority, gender, sexuality, nationality, disabilities and environmental issues through various creative forms. In this piece, they questions about discriminations and dreamt about a time when there would be no more borders and stereotypes.
Inspired by the aesthetic and political components of the performance work, designer Masanori Morikawa developed a collection rich in construction details, embellishments, colors and prints, nodding to hope and his idea of a chaotic modern society also having its positive sides.
Adopting a chic sartorial allure, the precisely cut coats, jackets and pants are proposed in different shapes and volumes. The silhouettes –comfortable or fitted for men, off-the-shoulder and long flared for women—explore gender diversity and morphologies. The notion of underlining the shapes of different body types is also translated into the graphic tape seams running on the pattern constructions of wool jackets, shirts, coats and pants, some in a tight anatomical cut.
Divided into sections of colors, prints and chic, austere, black silhouettes, the runway looks slowly burst into fresh colors including lilac, blues and a bright acid green. A couple of knitwear looks in a myriad of multicolor stripes recall giant video monitor screens, and colorful collage prints, inspired by video artworks, like thermal visuals of anatomy, are nodding to this notion of chaos. The striking bespoke jacquard woven with poetic texts in Japanese typography evokes the effect of white noise video image on men’s and women’s coats.
Expressing a subtle nostalgia and the passing of time, a discreet patina surfaces on a black
flocked denim cropped jacket and pant for women, or on the coated shiny fabric of large pants, long skirts and shirts which are washed and coated to achieve an almost imperceptible wrinkled motif.
Embroidered elements such as the word DREAMER written in red and white letters on a big black and lime tie-dye fleece, or wing motifs, surface throughout the collection on the shoulders and sleeves of tailored jackets, bombers and shirts, emphasizing the evocation of hope and salvation.
Photos:Christian Dada & Renato Casanova